A white relative of the black Pinot Noir grape, Pinot Gris is planted and vinified all over the world. The highest expressions of this grayish-blue (hence the word "gris" for grey) grape, however, is found in the cool climate of Tokay d'Alsace, France. This is Pinot Gris at its best: rich, full-bodied, gently perfumed wines with medium acidity and a lingering, pleasant finish. In northeastern Italy, where it's known as Pinot Grigio, the style is very different: winemakers pick it early, ferment it cold, and sell it young while the acid, fruit—grapefruit, lemon, and other citrus notes—and aromatics are still crisp, lively, and fresh. (FYI, the best of the Italian Pinot Grigios come from Collio, near Italy's border with Slovenia.) Several New World producers, located in the cooler climes of New Zealand, California, and Oregon, have had considerable success with Pinot Gris as well. The drier, more acidic version goes well with shellfish and seafood, while the fuller-bodied style is a good bet with pasta, milder cheeses, and chicken dishes.