When sparkling wine is made using the mé́thode champenoise, it has to "rest on its lees" for at least 18 months (and usually a whole lot longer) to allow it to develop more complex flavors. About three months before the wine is disgorged and boxed, each bottle must be turned and tilted downward slightly so the sediment will move down the bottle and collect in the cork (the sediment is so fine and difficult to precipitate that this is the only method that works). The process is called riddling, or remuage. Specially made riddling racks called pupitres hold the bottles at an angle while "riddlers" turn each bottle by hand using the time- honored coup de poignet [COO de pwa-NYAY] or "twist of the wrist" (and there's a lot of wrist-twisting at a big Champagne estate). Automatic riddling racks can do the job, but traditional producers such as Schramsberg in Napa Valley and Krug from Champagne take pride in the fact that their riddling is still done by hand.